How to hike the Volcán Barú in Panama (a full guide)

Notes from a Traveller

Imagine yourself feeling the first sun rays of the day on your skin at 3.475 m altitude. The sun slowly making her way up through the moutains around you and the ocean on the horizon. Actually, two oceans on the horizon. Because when you turn around you see a blurry blue in the distance. The summit of Volcán Barú is one of the only places in the world where one can see both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea at the same time. The Volcán Barú is the highest mountain in Panama. And yes, you can hike to the summit. And yes, this will be the adventure of a lifetime. This guide explains how to hike the Volcán Barú in Panama and how you can be best prepared for it.

The first step is to plan your hike to Volcán Barú. It is located near the charming town of Boquete in western Panama. The small mountain village is one of the places you need to see when travelling Panama. There are different hikes around the area which lead you into the incredible nature of the country (and yes, less demanding hikes than Barú).

The best (and only) way to hike Barú is during the night. You normally start hiking in the dark to reach the summit just in time for the sunrise. Considering the temperatures in the area, it can get pretty hot and humid during the day. Therefore it is much more comfortable at night, even though it can be frightening to hike for several hours in the dark.

When arriving in Boquete, I suggest to set a date for the hike. Check the weather to make sure you will get a clear sunrise. Personally, I would not hike Barú on the first night after your arrival, because there are indeed some preparations that need to be done. Depending on your time and itinerary, I suggest doing on your second night in Boquete. Make sure to stay another night after finishing the hike, because you will need some sleep and rest before you continue your trip through Panama.

You should also consider doing it on your own or with a guide. There are guides available, even though most offers are to take you to the summit with a 4×4. If you are travelling on your own, hiring a guide might be an option. But if you are a couple or a group of friends, you will totally be fine on your own. There is only one way to the summit and it is almost impossible to get lost (you will later know why). If you are equipped with good hiking shoes and warm clothing, you will manage on your own (my point of view).

It is important to mention that the hike is demanding. To reach the summit, it might take up to 5 or 6 hours. As you are hiking during the night, it is quite cold in this altitude. Therefore the normal clothing you would wear when travelling Panama might not be suitable. If you know you will be hiking Barú before you leave, you can pack the equipment already. If not and you decide spontaneously (like I did), there are a few shops in Boquete where you will get appropriate clothing.

You will need:

  • Clothing: Layers, including a lightweight jacket, as temperatures at the summit can drop to near freezing. I would recommend a windbreaker, a hoodie or fleece jacket, a longsleeve and a t-shirt. I also wore a hat and gloves and can highly recommend doing the same.
  • Shoes: Sturdy hiking boots with good grip. I did it with Nike Dunks, cannot recommend. Especially on the way down you will be better off with good shoes.
  • Food & Water: At least 2-3 liters of water and high-energy snacks. Pack a breakfast you can enjoy on the summit and also some fruits if you need a break when hiking down (which you will need).
  • Headlamp: Essential for night hiking. You can get these in Boquete.
  • First Aid Kit: For minor injuries. I would recommend some plasters.
  • Optional: A camera or smartphone for capturing the incredible views.

While it might sound ridiculous to buy a hat and gloves in Panama, you will quickly notice why. When we reached the summit, my body was shaking because it was so cold and I was sweaty at the same time. The hat definitely saved me from being sick on this trip. Plus, you can get both the gloves and the hat for a few euros in one of the clothing stores in Boquete. Not too much of an investment anyway.

To be in time for sunset and avoid getting in a rush, I recommend leaving Boquete at midnight or even a bit earlier. We startet our hike at 1 am. We initially booked a driver through our hostel who was supposed to pick us up and drive us to the entrance of the Volcán Barú Trail. But that did not happen and we had to desperately search for a taxi who would still take us up the hill at this time. Luckily, we found someone. To avoid the stress before the big hike, I recommend booking a taxi in advance or checking with other people at your accommodation how they did it.

Book your taxi for midnight and you will reach the beginning at about 12:40 am. If you tell your driver to drop you off at the entrance to the trail, they usually know where to go.

If not, click here to see the exact location.

After they drop you off, you will need to walk about 500 meters until you reach the official entrance and spot the first sign showing the way and the distance. Yes, there´s 13km awaiting you. And believe me, a kilometer never felt this long.

The hike took us 5 hours. Of course, depending on your level fitness this can be shorter or longer. Each kilometer you will find a new sign, so you always know what’s left of the route. The path itself is a wide gravel road with pretty big stones and rocks. A head light is indispensable. There is no way you can get lost, as there is only one trail and no narrow roads where you could take a wrong turn.

The best part about hiking in the middle of night to the highest mountain in Panama: the sky. I have never seen such a clear sky. As there is no bigger city in the near distance, the stars are shining brighter than ever. If you have time, make sure to stand still from time to time and if you’re lucky you can see some shooting stars. We even saw a meteor shower, which was probably the most insane thing I’ve ever seen.

Make sure to stop regularly to drink water.

Around an hour before the sun rises the first jeeps will make their way to the summit. You will hear them way before they actually pass you. Make sure to step aside and cover your face, as the dust of the road is the last thing you want to taste when you’ve been hiking for what feels like forever.

At some point, you are able to actually see the summit. Or at least the electricity poles. I got super excited at this point, but it still is quite a while until you actually get there. As soon as you arrive, the first thing you notice are the people. In my case, the whole summit was filled with all the tourists who took the 4×4 to witness the sunrise.

We did not hike to the actual summit as soon as we arrived, but found a quieter spot instead. It was absolutely freezing and I cannot remember when I felt this cold the last time. But the sunrise makes you forget the pain you feel in every part of your body. When the sun rays touch your face, you will feel better immediately.

I recommend to spend some time at the summit. Wait until the cars are starting to leave and the summit will quickly empty. We climbed the final steps after most of the crowds were gone and could enjoy it to ourselves (well deserved!!).

The final steps towards the summit can be quite challenging, especially with your legs being tired. Make sure to watch your step and climb carefully over the rocks.

The summit offers an incredible view over the surrounding mountains and the two oceans in the distance. It is quite cool to stand on the highest point in a country and overlook everything around you. This is the perfect place to take pictures and save this moment forever – in your heart and on camera.

It will also be the first time you feel warm since you left Boquete. The sun not only brings the light back and lets you see the beautiful place you’re in but also the warmth. It actually feels like a warm hug and you will be able to feel a bit more comfortable.

Before hiking down, make sure to eat. If you brought some breakfast, enjoy it at the summit before you start descending.

You may think that the hardest part is done now that you’ve reached the summit. Sorry to disappoint, but it’s better to know in advance (because we didn’t). The hike down is actually the real challenge of the whole hike. On one hand because the 13 km downhill are no joke and on the other hand because your feet and legs will not be amused.

It’s actually surprising to see the road you’ve been hiking up in the daylight. You will notice the huge rocks and how bumpy it is. And while hiking up on such a surface is a challenge, hiking down is even more. This is the point where your good shoes will be your savior.

Walk slowly and watch your step. It is very easy to slip and hurt yourself. We have actually passed two groups where one member hurt their ankle and could not continue walking. And yes, it takes ages until help arrives. This should not scare you but just raise awareness of how important it is to be careful.

For me, the way down felt twice as long as the hike to the summit. It is starting to get hot quite fast and the sun is burning on your head. And all you do is wait until the next sign pops up in trees next to the road letting you know much is still left.

I recommend getting the number of the taxi driver who drops you off at midnight. That allows you to contact him as soon as you get closer to the exit of the trail and you will get a pick-up back to Boquete just in time. It is impossible to find a taxi at the exit, because it is quite remote and only one road leads up the hill. It is therefore best to organize it in advance.

Apparently, there is also a shuttle bus. But I cannot confirm if the bus is reliable and what the exact time table is. Make sure to check with your hostel or hotel if you plan to take this option.

  1. Know Your Limits: The altitude and steepness can be tough; don’t push yourself too hard. Consider in the beginning, if you fitness is enough or if you rather skip this adventure.
  2. Hike with a Group: Solo hiking is not recommended unless you’re experienced. There are always fellow travellers who plan the same hike, so connect yourself to be safe.
  3. Weather Awareness: Check forecasts before you hike. Sudden storms can occur even in the dry season. And do not underestimate the temperatures, both during the day and the night. Pack a hat for the night and a cap for the day to protect your face from the sun.
  4. Stay on the Trail: Even if it’s almost impossible, venturing off-trail increases the risk of getting lost. Just follow the wide road and you will be fine.
  5. Watch your step: Be careful when walking. Each step should be well-thought and you need to pay attention to the road.

After the hike, you will feel every part of your body. Make sure to get some rest and not plan any activities for the day after. Reward yourself with a delicious meal in Boquete and most of all: be proud! You’ve hiked to the highest mountain in Panama, what an achievement!

If you want to know more about Panama and how to travel the country, click here.

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